Week Nine | Outback Oasis

SNAPSHOT

It was 1996 when I first stepped off an Ansett flight, fresh from New Zealand, ready to take on Australia at a naive 20 years old.....my destination?

Darwin. The "why's" and "what the hell were you thinking's" is a story for another day but suffice to say nine days later as I had passed my millionth termite hill, wild camels, played eye-spy with every dangerous, human attacking species you could think of, and cringed at the seering sun - this little kiwi was trying to work out how to pay for a flight home with my tail between my legs 😂

But then! An oasis in the outback......Mataranka and the beautiful Bitter Springs......I still remember the feeling of peace and tranquility it gave me then and 21 years later nothing has changed!

This week has been hilarious, surprising and exhausting - we've clocked up approximately 1800km, I had a crack at towing the van (much easier than I imagined!), we've been on a wifi and phone range diet and, unlike my experience 21 years ago this older and much wiser kiwi loved every minute of the outback.....enjoy!!!

Normanton / Karumba - Queensland

This was a bucket list item for Leigh and EVERYONE said we had to get to Karumba so we eagerly booked ahead and left Croydon early burly to make good time! There is no doubt we are on the Savannah Way, the expanse of it is breathtaking and I can't begin to imagine how the station owners survive out here......after a quick photo opportunity at Maggieville Station (one guess why?) we pulled into Normanton and it was alive with caravanners and backpackers - the Information Centre is one of the best we have seen yet and the girls loved reading about the croc history, the largest caught here being 8 meters long and was measured in the Guiness Book of Records after which, a lifescale model was made for the town (check out the photos)......no-one was saying much - we were all just standing looking at this croc statue with our mouths open 😱

Karumba was nothing like we expected - rough around the edges, I can understand why it was described as "full of fishermen with one leg and hungry crocs"......it has previously been determined that we are definitely not good fishermen (how the hell do you learn this stuff?) so we had a drive around the small town, spent $140 on groceries (two bags!) and wondered what to do next? Were we missing something? Another drive proved not so we did what any other person would do and went to the esplanade pub to watch the sunset And wow!!! Was just gorgeous and a lovely way to finish off a long and confusing day hah hah

Got to catch up with the Atkins family (met in Noosa!) awesome to see a familiar face! Enjoy your trip guys ❤️

Cloncurry - Queensland

Our original plan was to make it from Karumba to The Burke and Wills Roadhouse but we are finding the driving really easy and girls were travelling well, loaded up with books from the Normanton library so we grabbed some fresh water and fruit and decided to keep going......Cloncurry is a cute little mining town and it was nice to pull in, refill the food situation and drive out early again the next morning!

Camooweal - Queensland

The distances between these towns can be between 300km and 500km so water and fuel are a constant topic of discussion......we tend to top up wherever we can and since we were free camping on the Georgina River tonight we were as prepared as we could be. What we weren't prepared for was our battery refusing to hold charge and therefore, as Murphys Law would have it, just as the sun set, so did the power in the van! 

Celebrity Heads via head torch it was......goodbye Queensland!! We needed more time with you!!

Three Ways Roadhouse - Northern Territory

Well, we finally crossed over the border and immediately the roads and scenary changed......again a change in plan and an early start saw us stop for lunch at the Barkly Homestead instead of setting up camp but we really felt we could get a few more miles under the belt so kept going to Three Ways.......the Roadhouse was a little oasis in itself out the back and we settled into a shady spot, had a swim and rested up! Lots of driving ahead of us!

Daly Waters Historic Pub

I have always wanted to come and see Daly Waters and walking through the doors was sensory overload for sure 😂 - where to look? where not to look? 😂 where to begin? Lunch and a beer sounded like a pretty good place to start and it didn't disappoint either - deciding we had had enough driving for the day we booked a powered "site", i use that term loosely.... the caravan park was pretty much a free-for-all.....a dusty bowl of vans parked haphazardly!!! Happy hour was fantastic, live country music and cheap beer!! I could have sat there all night enjoying the "one man band" but our plan was to be out of here early to get into Bitter Springs.....and also Leigh looked like he would rather someone stick needles in his eyes than sit through another set of country music 🙄 Rusty, you would have loved it!!!!

Mataranka/Bitter Springs

We were up and outta Daly Waters by 7am! Our best time yet although we took it slow - didn't need a close up view of any Roos today! 

Finally we made it - and it's every bit the oasis I remember! Thank goodness I've earned some brownie points with this one - I lost a few at Daly Waters 😂 Beautiful campsite and friendly reception at Bitter Springs Camping with only a 500 metre walk down to the Springs, what more could you want?? Obligatory noodle hired from reception we walked down to The Springs and spent an hour or so floating down the current feeling very very lucky indeed (also lucky that the freshwater crocodilia that apparently inhabit these waters didn't pop up to say hello 😱)........met some fabulous people, Paul and Julie from Coffin Bay who insist we should call in as we go past in September and they will show us how to fish 🐟 - woo hoo!!!

By some strange coincidence, a family we had arranged to meet in Darwin (hi Melinda, Bill, Anna and Will!) swam into us at thermal springs - awesome to see you guys!!!

BEST PART vs WORST PART

🐣Liv

Best part:  Definitely Bitter Springs, the water was so so warm and clear - we could see the fish! It was fun to hire the noodle from the caravan park and float down!

Worst part: I miss books, we haven't found a bookshop since Cairns - Mum went to the library but I read two books in one trip! Hopefully there is a shop in Darwin or a library!

🐴 Maggie

Best Part: Bitter Springs was the best place ever! I didn't get to see a turtle but I finally got to buy my very own stock whip (wth my own money!) - Mum says I can't crack it until we have more room...,I think Mum or Dad secretly had a go with it 😡

Worst part: No worst part this week! 

🏌️Leigh

Best part:  Bitter Springs for sure....good to wash the dust and shame of Daly Waters off my skin 😂

Worst part: Rana insisting I replenish my beer stock at Daly Waters because "there probably won't be anywhere else until Katherine".....only to have to hand over my man card and pay $80 at Daly Waters......😡  interesting to note that the Mataranka Pub sold the same beer for $51 - on the bright side I'm sure someone out there could write a country and western song about this sad story 😂

🌺 Rana

Best part: The constant beauty and changes in landscape at every turn, from the expanse of The Savannah Way to the crazy character of Daly Waters ending in the spectacular oasis of Bitter Springs.....

Also how brilliantly the girls have travelled - in total about 20 hours in the car ❤️ They are full of questions about Australian history and Aboriginal culture and I love being able to teach them along the way.....they still do their school work (under sufference some days!) but are now learning things that are not taught at school 😊

Worst part:   It's not the worst part by far and our technology diet was a peaceful break but it did make it challenging at times when we had to change plans at last minute - I just had to dust off the Camping Australia book and go old school! If only it could have told me that there are no supermarkets open on Sundays in Mt Isa 😅

SAY IT AGAIN???

I've begrudgingly handed the reins of this segment over to Leigh this week on the promise I won't edit it......

Leigh: Maggie realised her trip dream this week and purchased a real stock whip and out of eye and earshot of the girls, Rana decided to take it on its maiden voyage - she carefully positioned herself at the front of the van and let rip......the end of the whip dislodging her cap, unfortunately there was no sharp crack only the horrified gasps of fellow campers across the dark park.......glowing with embarrassment and hat still askew she slinked her way back to the van, undoubtedly keen to review the YouTube footage of the 1980's cult band Devo to try and figure out what went wrong 😂

Stockwhip One | Rana Zero

LESSONS LEARNT:

📝  We can live without wifi, also without power and water for 12 hours along with a van door handle if need be 😂

📝 Leigh will never learn to appreciate country and western music....the girls are still malleable in my opinion!

📝   I can tow a caravan!!! So proud of myself - I gave the caravan wave like a pro and Leigh even let me have another wee turn on our way to Daly Waters! 

NEXT DESTINATION:

Darwin baby!!!! And we can't wait!!!!!!

 

The road thus travelled for Week Nine

 

Holy Crocodilia! The largest Croc ever caught, shot by an attractive Norwegian woman apparently? Surely not?? But the Guinness Book of Records confirms it so must be so?? 😂

 

Self explanatory! The excitement was real people!

 

The Savannah Way........eagles were incredible and huge!!!!

 

By Karumba! Best sunset in the world ....and all with a view from a pub that sells good Sauv! Imagine that! 😜

 

 

The scenery, clouds and lighting  was awesome between Cloncurry and Mount Isa - these were taken from inside the car travelling!

 

Hello Daly Waters! You crazy overwhelming hilarious pub! Ps I didn't leave my bra.....didn't want to frighten the oldies out of the bar area 😂

 

Up and at Em at 7am to beat the Daly Waters Nomads into Bitter Springs - sorry guys its become every man for himself! 😂

 

One of the most beautiful places I have been! Needed it to wash off the dust and just have fun!